Friday, June 15, 2012

King's and Queen's A&S - Part 2

My goal for my nalbinding project was to show the long history of this textile technique. I stitched 3 accessories - socks, based on circa 300 CE socks from Egypt; a mitten based on one found in the medieval layers at Ribe, Denmark; and a hat based on one found when the wall surrounding Copenhagen was demolished.

To make the socks I examined photos of the original (taken by Lady Susanna Lockhart) to determine the pattern. These are constructed using the Coptic stitch. I spun a fine single, and used a long copper needle to make the stitches. They do not exactly match the originals because they were made to fit Mistress Brid.

According to the staff at the Sydvestjyske Museum, no research has yet been done on their mitten. I began by studying high-resolution photos. By examining the deteriorated edges I was able to determine that a 2-ply yarn was used. Without being able to touch the actual mitten, I compared the look of the fabric - the height of the ridges, angle of thread - to hypothesize on the stitch used. It most closely matches mittens I have previously made using the Mammen stitch.
I spun a medium weight 2-ply yarn for the mitten, using one of my reproductions of Ribe whorls. The pattern of the mitten is more fitted than many mittens that have been found. I consider my version a draft.
I am currently combing and spinning Jacob wool to make a measured copy of the artifact.

My third piece is based on a dapper little hat. It was impossible for me to determine the stitch used in the artifact, but the hat was clearly made with a bulky yarn. I chose to construct the hat using the Oslo stitch. Using a 38 gram whorl, I pushed the spindle to its limit, creating a plied yarn of 5 wpi. The yarn for the original was probably made using a wheel. I believe the original hat was constructed from the brim to the crown, based on the way the edge lies, however, I stitched my version beginning at the crown. It can be difficult (at least for me) to make a hat fit properly when starting at the brim, because nalbinding tends to tighten up after the first row. By starting at the crown I was assured of a good fit. Since I want to wear this hat when I walk to work on cold days, my version of the hat is deeper than the original - so that it will cover my ears. I can tell you - it is very warm!

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